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General/Miscellaneous Crafts
Crafter's Dilemma: What Glue Do I Use?
From LAND OF ODDS
We at Land of Odds get many questions about what glue to
use with rhinestones and other beading and jewelry-making
projects. We're craftspersons and silversmiths, and we have
a shop where we sell rhinestones, beads, jewelry findings,
cabochons and the like.
Nothing is perfect, but based on our experiences, here
are some good tips:
- Always experiment with your adhesives first, before
you use an adhesive on your final project.
- Glues vary widely in terms of which materials they
stick to, how well they form a bond between two smooth
surfaces, and how the glue bond ages, both in terms of
durability and color.
- Clean the excess glue off your piece before you
display or sell it.
- You will probably have to rely on more than one type
of glue to accommodate all your types of projects.
Superglue
Superglue is not our favorite! It
often ruins rhinestones and other pieces we use in
jewelry-making. It's bond is tough, but it breaks easily.
Superglue dries like glass, and breaks like glass.
We do, howeve r, use
superglue occasionally. We often use it seal end knots, or
coat a frayed strand of cord. We sometimes use it on
crimp beads to enhance the closure.
Hot Glue Guns
Hot glue guns are fun to use. When the materials you are
using are large and bulky, hot glue guns make the projects
go faster.
The glue's bond will not last forever. The glue will
yellow with age.
There is a wide variation in the types of pieces called
"rhinestones". Basically, rhinestones are mirror- or
foil-backed pieces of clear glass crystal, glass or plastic.
Sometimes they are faceted; other times they are not.
Some rhinestones have a flat back so they can be glued
directly to the piece; others have a pointed back so they
can fit into a cup or bezel. Each design element in the
architecture of the rhinestone -- base material, overall
shape, faceting, foil, and effect -- adds to its shine,
sparkle and brilliance. The mirror or foil reflects and
refracts light. Sometimes, the mirror or foil itself has a
special color, effect or treatment applied to it. The clear
"glass" can range from, at the most brilliant end,
very-leaded glass to somewhat leaded glass to glass to
acrylic at the least brilliant end. Sometimes the glass is
coated with an effect or treatment.
Your goals for gluing rhinestones into a piece of jewelry
or onto a piece of clothing are simple:
- You want a bond that sticks and is durable
- You don't want the adhesive to ruin the rhinestone
- You want the glue to dry clear and "age" clear
- You don't want the glue to show outside or over the
edges of the stone
- If you've gotten glue on the stone, you want to be
able to get it off easily
Never use superglue with rhinestones! Superglue clouds
the stone. Superglue dries like glass, so its bond shatters
like glass when the bond is disturbed.
E6000, or any other brand of epoxy, works best with glass
crystal and glass rhinestones, as well as gemstones. Epoxy
is a plastic, and sometimes will dissolve or disturb the
foils on the backs of acrylic rhinestones, although it is
fine for acrylic cabochons or beads which do not have a foil
backing. E6000 dries like rubber, so its bond acts like a
shock absorber when the piece is hit, dropped, banged or
otherwise disturbed. E6000 is great for gluing stones on
cloth material, as well, and the bond will withstand several
machine washings.
A rhinestone glue or Elmer's glue works OK for acrylic
rhinestones.
Hot glue guns will work with the stones, but the glue
doesn't age well. The bond weakens relatively quickly. The
glue yellows somewhat.
When we use E6000 with rhinestones, we put a little drop
of glue on the end of a pin. Then we touch the glue to the
back of the rhinestone. We maneuver the pin-glue-rhinestone
over the place where we want the stone to be. Then we push
the rhinestone in place, and simultaneously pull the pin
away from the stone. We rub the stone and around the stone
with our finger or the pin to get any excess glue off.
Before it dries, E6000 rubs off like rubber cement.
About E6000
E-6000 is the jeweler's glue of choice, and our favorite.
It is a one-part epoxy, (meaning you don't have to mix
anything to make the glue -- it just comes out of a tube).
Perfect for attaching findings to base metal and costume
jewelry pieces.
Also, use E-6000 on bead strands to seal end knots and to
provide a strong, flexible seal that won't become brittle or
damage the bead cord.
E-6000 is safe for use with virtually every type of
gemstone and works on wood, leather, vinyl, and canvas.
Non-corrosive and self-leveling, E-6000 adheres in 5 to
10 minutes, and hardens to a clear, waterproof cure in 24
hours. This means you have about 10 minutes to position and
reposition whatever you are gluing. If you are making
jewelry, you should let the piece dry "hard" overnight,
before you wear it.
We advise against using superglue for most jewelry-making
projects. Superglue discolors stones.
Superglue dries like glass, so its seal shatters like
glass when piece is dropped.
E6000 dries like rubber, so its seal acts like a shock
absorber when a piece is dropped.
E6000 dries clear.
Two things E6000 won't do:
- Bond two pieces of smooth glass together, like two
glass disks.
- Sometimes, it will pull the foil back away from
acrylic rhinestones.
Gluing Marcasites
With marcasites, we always use E6000 (or similar epoxy).
This creates the strongest bond.
While this is not foolproof, it is the best and longest
lasting solution.
Again, never use superglue.
Also, take off your marcasite jewelry before you wash
your hands, or before you attempt to wash the dishes. The
hand-soap and dish-detergent dissolve most glues. E6000 will
withstand this for awhile, but not forever.
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